McCoy BIOCERA Laundry Ball

My hubby had just passed to me a flyer about McCoy BIOCERA Laundry Ball. What is this?? Never heard before. That's my response.

In the flyer, it is stated the advantages are :
1. replaces detergent and softener
2. save water, space, electricity, time and money
3. deodorant,anti-bacteria & hypo-allergenic. Good for sensitive skin and babies.
4. no harmful chemicals in water after laundry
(I summarised the long winded descriptions in the flyer)

Out of curiosity, I google for this product and here is what I found



Have anyone used this before? Can advise whether this is really affective for doing laundry washing? If yes, I might go get some too :)

Please leave your comments, if any. Thanks ya!

The Curious Case of Burnt Turner

As I was browsing through the internet, I saw this post from The Foodie's Food Trip. I was very excited by the post. Why? Because I just had the same experience few weeks ago!

Oh my poor plastic Turner!

My Plastic Turner got BURNT halfway during cooking! And mind you, I wasn't leaving the turner on the heating cooking pan or any kind of carelessness action. I was just stirring the meat as per normal in the pan. The difference is that I had just increased the stove flame volume.

Initially what I see was just some foreign black substances on the meat that I was cooking, and I thought I had burnt the meat. But upon stirring, I could feel that the texture of the UFO (Unidentified Foreign Object) was different from what a charred meat should be. And a few seconds later, this was what I saw ...

*Thinking*
Should I send you for cosmetic surgery?
*Thinking hard again*
I think better not. First you would need more maintenance. Second you might inflict injuries on yourself again. Not that I am cold-hearted, just that I am a very poor chap.
*Pitying you and myself*

So after some deliberating, I concluded that I should get another new turner instead of trying to salvage this damaged one. And so I get myself a new turner *drum roll please*


Ladies and Gentlemen, introducing ....
.
.
.
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TINA TURNER !!!
.
.
.
.
.

Ok. Ok. I know I am too poor to afford that turner. So I changed my mind to got myself a cheaper version.

Introducing my new Wooden Turner

I have been using this wooden turner for nearly a month and so far so good *touch wood* (pun intended).

Lesson learnt : DO NOT use plastic turner if you need to cook in high heat as the plastic might melt anytime.

PS : Initially when this 'saga' happened, I thought that I was a moron to spoil a turner in this manner. So now I am relieved that it is proven the fault is not mine since I could see another person having similar experience. Or is it that there is another moron on this earth? *wink*

PPS (13 Mar 09) : Received an email from one of my reader saying that there is this silicon turner that won't get burnt ... but I have not seen it before .... Does anyone had experiences with silicon turner? Please share! Thanx :)

How to Choose Ironing Board

Following is tips on how to choose a good ironing board :

1. Size
Choose the widest board size.
Full size is at least 4 feet in length and 12-18 inch in width.

2. Height
Get an adjustable one.
Recommended raised height to minimum hip level to waist level.

3. Space and Mobility
Get one that can fit into the working and storage space in your home.

4. Sturdiness
Choose stable ironing board with sturdy frame and solid base.

5. Board Pad
Choose pad that have vent holes and the padding is thick enough. Recommended to get a "non-stick" and "reflective" surface.

6. Iron Rest
Sturdy enough to hold the weight of the iron and prevent the iron from moving in position.

7. Cloth Hanging Rack
Preferably to have this feature for hanging clothes after ironing.

8. Non-scratch Foot
Make sure the feet of the stand would not cause any scratches on your flooring, while keeping the ironing board in place.

IKEA : My Favourite Thing

Here's something I bought from IKEA recently and I love it a lot


So here it is .....


Good thing is that it has a transparent plastic cover ....

And is collapsible for storage.



I had actually bought a few and is using them for the following :

1. Storage for dirty laundry (different box for different type of laundry).
2. Wardrobe clothes compartment organiser.
3. Shoe storage compartment.

And here's the name of the product if you are interested too :)

"KOMPLEMENT"

No More Clothes Ironing During Travel !

How to fold clothes without the need to iron them later

Source : OneBag.com



Isn't this neat?

How to use a Washing Machine

Here's a step-by step guide on how to use a washing machine. Please note that for different type of washing machines, there may be a little bit of variation (but general rules still apply).



NOTE : Best is to READ your User Manual prior to using your Washing Machine.



Step 1 : SORTING

Separate your clothes into the following piles to be washed separately :

1. White (and Light-colored clothes) vs Dark clothes
2. Heavy vs Light clothes
3. Heavily-soiled vs Lightly-soiled clothes
4. Normal vs Delicate fabric
5. Dry Cleaning Only



Step 2 : ADD IN DETERGENT AND SOFTENER

Take note of the type of detergent that you can use for your washing machine.

For Top Load - normal detergent is ok

For Front Load - low sud forming detergent
Such as Persil
Softener & bleach is optional.
Note that NOT all type of fabric can use softener / bleach.

In order to determine the amount to be added in, please refer to your Washing Machine Manual and Detergent/Softener/Bleach packaging instructions.

However, here's some guidelines on the amount of detergent to use :

1. For heavily soiled clothes, add in some detergent into prewash compartment and fill up 100% of washing compartment.

2. For delicates, fill up 25% of washing compartment.

3. For delicate bedsheet material (such as Egyptian Cotton Sateen), fill up 25% of washing compartment.



STEP 3 : LOAD CLOTHINGS

Load your clothes loosely into the washing machine drum. This is to minimise tangling of clothes after the washing is done.

Look at your manual on how much amount (weight / volume) of clothings that you can fit into your washer per loading of each type of clothes.

Rule of thumb (for Front-Load) :
1. For normal clothing - up till 3/4 height of the drum
2. For heavy items like bedsheet - up till 1/2 height of the drum

Ensure the following before throwing in your clothes :
1. The pockets are empty (to prevent damage to drum).
2. The cuffs are unrolled (to prevent damage to clothes).
3. The zips and buttons are closed (to prevent clothes from getting out of shape).



STEP 4 : SETTINGS

It is recommended to refer to your Washing Machine User Manual for instructions on which settings to be used for different type of clothings.

However, here's my recommendation :


Washing

1. White & Light-colored fabric
- Hot Water (min. 120 deg Fehrenheit / 50 deg Celcius)

2. Dark & Colored fabric
- Cold Water (around 60-80 deg Fehrenheit / 16-27 deg Celcius)

3. Different type of fabrics mixed together
- Use Synthetics Options

4. Very delicate fabric
- Use Hand Wash Option (this is the most delicate option for washing clothes)

5. Socks
- Cold Water

6. Bedsheet set
- Cold Water

7. To kill dust mite (for Asthmatic and Allergy prevenion)
- Hot Water (min. 130 deg Fehrenheit / 55 deg Celcius)


Spinning

1. Delicate fabric
- No spinning

2. Normal clothes
- Around 600 rpm

3. Jeans and Linen
- Higher than 600 rpm (so that it dries easier)

4. Different type of fabrics mixed together
- Use a special bag to put in your delicate items (dunno what this is called though)


Optional Washer Cycles (Normally found in Washing Machines)

1. Extra Long

- A longer wash time, good for seriously dirty clothing such as sports uniforms.

2. Extra Rinse

- Adds another rinse to get out more dirt and detergent.

3. Extra Spin

- More spin time gets more water out of absorbent items such as towels or comforters.

4. Hand Wash

- If you own a number of fine washables and neither the time nor the desire to wash them by hand, this is a good option to have.

5. Prewash / Presoak

- A brief cycle before the main cycle, designed to help remove dirt and stains.

6. Quick Wash

- A shorter wash option for clothing that's only lightly soiled. It saves water and wear and tear on the clothes.

7. Sanitize

- Offers a few minutes of extra-hot water mid-cycle to kill bacteria and other germs. Good for families with frequent illnesses and allergies.

STEP 5 : START & END

Do not that most of Front Loader door would not be able to be opened once the washing starts. This is not a problem for Top Loader though.

When the whole cycle end, it is best to open the door as soon as possible, so that the clothes inside won't get smelly over time.



ADDITIONAL STEP : MAINTENANCE

Following are to be noted :

1. Prior to using the Washing Machine for the first time, run the washing machine in hot water setting (around 90 degree Celcius) without any loading of clothes. This is to get rid of debris and dust in the machine during manufacturing stage. This is to be repeated once in every 3 months.

2. When washing machines are not used for prolonged time, remove the water faucets (valves) as this will prevent any leakage occurring on valves and hoses.

3. When your washing machine has not been used for a fortnight, wash with hot water and this will eliminate the hydrogen gas collected in the water heater.

Enjoy your washings!

P.S. This post is dedicated to Ferene, for asking me how to use a Washing Machine

All About Home Improvement

Laundry

• How to Use a Washing Machine
• How to Choose Ironing Board
  
• No more Clothes Ironing during Travel

Mattress & Beddings

• Tips for Choosing Beddings
• Tips for Choosing Suitable Bedsheet Sets Material
• How to Buy a Bedsheet
• How to Fold Fitted Queen-size Bedsheet
• How to Make a Bed
  

How to Make a Bed

Here's the step-by-step guide on how to make a bed from ExpertVillage in Youtube :


Step 1 : Clean Mattress




Step 2 : Turn a Mattress (Optional)




Step 3 : Put on Mattress Padding (Optional)




Step 4 : Put on Fitted Sheet




Step 5 : Put on Top / Flat Sheet (Optional)




Step 6 : Put on Blanket (Optional)




Step 7 : Put on Comforter




Step 8 : Put on Pillow Cases




Step 9 : Put on Pillow Shams (Optional)




Step 10 : Put on Decorative Pillows (Optional)




Step 11 : Put on Throw (Optional)



More Related Posts Here

How to Fold Fitted Queen Size Bedsheet

Some more tips on how to fold bedsheet (fitted queen size) from ExpertVillage in Youtube :


Part 1





Part 2




Part 3



More Related Posts Here

How to buy a bedsheet

Here's a video on how to buy a bedsheet :

Better TV's Brooke Carlson shows you what to look for when purchasing bed sheets.

More related posts here

Tips for choosing beddings

Here's some tips on how to choose the right bedsheet set :

1. Find out what size and side thickness length of bedding you need.

2. Think about what theme you want. Would you want a simple stripe, polka dots, or a floral design? The color that you prefer?

3. Pay attention to what the sheets you're buying are made out of.

4. Pay attention to the weave of the cotton if you're buying cotton.

5. Check the "thread count" on the label.

6. Most sheet sets come with a fitted sheet / plain sheet, two pillowcases and sometimes also a bolster case. You may also want to buy a quilt cover, blanket or comforter.

7. Washing: Some comforters can be washed in home washing machines if the machine is large enough. Some comforters however may require that you to take them to be dry cleaned or to a laundromat (laundromats tend to have a few larger machines for this purpose.) Be patient and follow the care directions. If washing at home or laundromat, don't use harsh detergents and use the extra rinse cycle. When it comes to drying the comforter in the dryer, toss a tennis ball or two into the dryer with the comforter and allow the comforter to take 3-4 hours to dry.

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Tips for choosing suitable bedsheet sets material

Here's some tips on how to choose material for bedsheet sets :


1. TYPE OF FABRIC

This should be the first factor in consideration when choosing a suitable bedsheet set, as opposed to usual practice of looking at thread counts first. Following are the different types of fabrics used :

A. COTTON

Sea Island (Cotton)
The most expensive cotton with a staple (fiber length) greater than 1 1/2".

Egyptian Cotton
A long staple variety from Egypt with fiber length averaging 1 3/8".

Pima (Cotton)
Pima is a cross between Sea Island Cotton and Egyptian Cotton with a fiber length averaging 1 1/2". The "Supima" certification mark is used only when the product is made entirely from southwestern extra-long staple cotton grown by members of the Supima Association of America.

American Upland Cotton
Representing the bulk of the world crop, American upland fiber runs between 3/4" and 1 1/4".

Egyptian cotton is agreed by all to be the best cotton available on the market, which creates both durability and extreme softness. This is followed by Pima, then Upland.

Organic Cotton
Organic cotton is grown without pesticides or chemical additives. At a minimum, an organic cotton crop must be grown in soil that has been chemical-free for at least three years.

Combed Cotton
The combing process removes the short fibers and any debris that may be in the cotton when it was in the field. A cleaner, more uniform and lustrous yarn results. Combing the cotton fibers increases both durability and softness.

Mercerized Cotton
A wet finishing process for cotton yarn or fabric that creates a stronger, more lustrous yarn. Mercerized cotton also takes dye better with brighter, deeper colors.


B. LINEN

Linen is made from flax and was used by the ancient Egyptians to mummify the pharaohs. Linen is noted for its strength, coolness, and luster. Linen sheets are known to soften with each washing. It is more expensive, but ultimately a very good investment in your bed.

Cotton or cotton blends are usually the best choice. Flannel keeps you warm in the winter, but if you keep your house at 60 degrees Fehrenheit or warmer at night, you'll be too hot in flannel sheets. Polyester satin might seem like fun, but it can be tacky and weird.


2. WEAVES

Second in the consideration should be how the weaving is done :

Sateen
Sateen is a name given to a satin weave that is entirely cotton. So, although the fabric is 100% cotton, the 3:1 satin weave creates a sleek, satiny sheen to the textile. A weave that has more yarn surface on the face of the cloth than other basic weaves giving a soft, smooth, lustrous look that resembles satin.

Flannel
A soft, medium-weight weave, usually made of cotton, with a napped finish (surface fibers have been raised by mechanical means) on one or both sides. The raised surface provides a fluffy appearance and soft, cozy feel.

Percale / Plain / Standard
This is a simple 1:1 thread weave typically made from combed cotton.. This creates a matte, flat appearance and a soft, powdery finish to the fabric. Percale sheeting is medium weight, firm, smooth, and has no sheen.

Jersey
A plain stitch knitted cloth made of wool, worsted, silk, cotton, rayon, and synthetics. Like your favorite tee-shirt, jersey is elastic and has great draping qualities.

Pinpoint
TBU

Sateen sheets have become popular as people want more luxurious fabrics in their homes and have found that sheets with a higher thread count are more durable. However, they are more expensive. Sateen is recommended for guest bedding that is not going to be used daily.

While those who like crisp, ironed sheets should probably look for percale in stores. Percale sheets are more like a traditional cotton fabric and some prefer their crisper feel. They are also less expensive than sateen, in general.

Satin looks nice and is good for pillowcases (less wear and tear on your hair) but not for bed sheets as they do not stay on the bed, are slippery and do not breathe or absorb moisture as well as standard and pinpoint weaves.


3. THREAD COUNT

Thread count refers to the density of the weave in threads per square inch. The higher the thread count, the more expensive the sheets (because more material, spun more finely, is needed to make them), but higher thread count is also better quality. However, these also greatly depends on the above 2 factors.

For instance, a 200 thread count standard cotton sheet woven with a sateen finish can be softer and more luxurious feeling than a 400 or 600 count sheet of standard cotton in a plain weave; the sateen finish makes the difference. And Egyptian cotton woven into a 200 thread count, sateen-finished sheet will feel even more luxurious than the 200 thread count standard cotton sateen-woven sheet.

However, one difference that thread count does make is in the density of the fabric, which can affect aesthetics (how see-through is it), to some slight degree the softness of the "hand", and warmth (higher thread counts will be warmer because there is less chance for the air to pass through the dense weave). One other thing to keep in mind though, is that a more modest thread count (200-400) can be easier to take care of than a higher thread count sheet, as the more dense the fabric, the more chance there is for damage and wrinkles. The highest thread count that can be manufactured without cheating is a 600 TC.

At minimum the thread count should be 175-200 but for nicer feeling sheets aim for 350. Be careful about sheets that claim high thread counts as they may be sheets with threads spun together and then woven. The result may be a label that reads "500 thread count" but feels like 250.

4. DYING PROCESS

Thread-/Yarn-Dyed vs. Piece-/Vat-Dyed
There are two ways that a fabric can be dyed with pigment. One is thread- or yarn-dyed. This involves dying each individual thread before the fabric is woven, so that each individual thread is saturated in color. In general, yarn-dyed fabrics resist fading much more than piece- or vat-dyed fabrics, which involve weaving first, and then dipping the whole fabric into a vat of dye, so that only the outer layer is coated in color. In general, piece-dyed fabrics will be warmer than yarn-dyed, as the spaces between fibers can be clogged up with dye, and fade faster, but yarn-dyed will usually be more expensive.

In short, fabric is most important; then weave; then thread count; and lastly the dying process. And next is, which to choose? Which to choose is almost entirely a personal preference issue. But here is a little background information to help you make the best decision for you.

WHICH TO CHOOSE ?

Temperature
Sateen is considered a good winter sheet, as the weave is dense and holds in warmth. For a good summer sheet, we recommend linen or percale as opposed to the sateen. Keep in mind, also, whether you get cold or hot during the night and therefore which will provide the most restful night for you.

Aesthetics
In addition, consider the aesthetics of your choice. If you like a little bit of a sheen to your fabrics, choose the sateen. If you prefer a more matte appearance, percale or linen is a better choice. Linen has a bit more obvious a visual texture, so keep that in mind as well. If you are concerned about wrinkling - linen will wrinkle, it has a distinct wrinkle pattern, which some do find visually appealing, actually. Any 100% natural fiber does have a tendency to wrinkle. It is, however, a matter of giving up some smoothness for comfort. In exchange, the natural sheets are much softer than any sheets which keep wrinkling down by adding harsher synthetic fibers.

Texture
Sateen has a smoother, more sleek feeling to it. It is a "satin", in fact, composed entirely of cotton, so the texture will be accordingly "satiny." Percale has a softer, more powdery finish to it - it is more obviously what people consider "cottony". Linen is initially a bit more "textured" due to its loose weave, but it will soften up with time more than any of the cotton sheets.

Durability
There are some slight differences in the durability of the various weaves that you might want to take into account. Linen is the most durable, and is often passed down generation to generation. Percale is the next most durable weave, as the simple one-to-one weave is less likely to snag or pill over the years. Lower thread count percales, will be slightly more durable than higher threadcounts, but the difference is not a large one. Sateen is the least durable, although, again, Egyptian cotton sateen will last a good time longer than lower-quality cotton sheets. The nature of the sateen weave makes it more susceptible to pilling and snagging, and might become a little bit flannel-like with time. If you love sateen sheets but don't love the pilling that comes with it, it is recommend that you iron your sheets occasionally, to keep the weave in place, and your sheets in top form.

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